The office held its annual Christmas dinner at Matteo Downtown, a well-regarded Italian restaurant in the heart of the CBD.

From the available set menus, the Matteo al Tavolo ($150.00 per person) was selected.

The evening began with Taittinger Champagne. Despite a general indifference towards wine and champagne, this proved quietly impressive: delicately structured, smoothly textured, and notably free of overt acidity or bitterness. Gentle fruit notes and restrained toasty yeast characters made it highly approachable and easy to drink.

Amouse-bouche

Beef Tartare Crostino – Focaccia crostino, hand-cut tenderloin, cured egg yolk

This opening bite hinged on contrast. The tender, softly textured beef sat against the dry, firm crunch of the crostino, while the cured egg yolk delivered a deep savoury intensity. Mustard appeared to underpin the seasoning, setting a thematic thread that recurred throughout the evening. Compact, flavourful, and well judged.

First Course

Focaccia – Chefs Daily, homemade foccacia

Exceptionally tender and deeply moreish, with a basil-infused olive oil contributing fruity, peppery aromatics that lifted the bread without overwhelming it.

Vitello Tonnato – Thinly sliced slow-cooked veal, salsa tonnata, fried capers, veal jus

The veal jus delivered an unexpectedly deep savoury intensity, closer in character to tuna or beef than to veal. The veal itself, though finely sliced, presented as slightly dry and faintly squeaky in texture, recalling canned tuna, and would have been improved by a higher fat content to soften and enrich the mouthfeel.

Tuna Crudo – Cured tuna, orange citronette, balsamic caviar, chives

The curing process largely stripped the tuna of its marine character. Combined with the sweetness of the balsamic caviar, the dish skewed uncomfortably sweet and lacked a grounding savoury counterpoint. Texturally, the tuna was springy and gelatinous rather than cleanly fleshed, diminishing its appeal.

Second Course

Paccheri Frutti di Mare – Garlic, chilli, cherry tomatoes, squid, prawns, mussels, vongole, lemon zest

The sauce delivered an unmistakably rich seafood aroma, with depth recalling prawn heads. The seafood itself was cooked with care and tenderness. However, the paccheri was undercooked for its thickness, landing short of al dente and instead reading dense and doughy. Chilli presence was minimal, fleeting to the point of being almost imperceptible.

Third Course

Pesce del Giorno – Pan-fried market fish, seasonal garnish

Salmon was served over pumpkin purée and silverbeet. While the skin achieved a pleasing crispness, the fish itself was overcooked and dry. The sweetness of the pumpkin overwhelmed the dish, and the fibrous silverbeet lacked the tenderness that softer greens might have provided. Overall, a dish that failed to cohere.

Fagiolini – Green beans, chilli, garlic, salted ricotta, balsamic glaze

The beans were fresh and crisp, with salted ricotta offering welcome savoury balance against the sweetness of the glaze. Chilli, once again, was functionally absent.

Fourth Course

Carne del Giorno – Cut of the day, homemade mustard, beef jus

The beef arrived with a smoky grilled aroma and a lightly caramelised sauce. Cooked rare, the meat was moderately tender and correctly handled, though otherwise restrained in flavour. The homemade mustard proved the standout element, its sharp tang cutting through the sweetness of the glaze and providing much-needed contrast.

Patate Fritte – Shoestring fries

Crisp on the exterior with fluffy centres, delivering a clean, rich potato flavour without greasiness.

Dessert

Tiramisù – Classic tiramisù, fresh coffee, savoiardi

The clear highlight of the meal. Coffee-soaked savoiardi were well balanced by the cream and cocoa, resulting in a harmonious and satisfying finish. A touch of alcohol would have elevated it further, but even without, it stood head and shoulders above the preceding courses.

Beverages

Marco Polo (+$20.00) – Aperol, Choya yuzu liqueur, Fever-Tree Sicilian lemon soda, Alasia Moscato d’Asti

Marketed as a blend of East and West, this aperitif leaned decisively in favour of the yuzu liqueur, which shone with balanced sweetness and aromatic clarity. Honeyed, floral Moscato notes supported it well, while Aperol and lemon soda remained secondary.

Purple Rain ($18.00) – Fresh grape juice, cranberry, lemon, butterfly pea flower syrup

Effectively a refined grape juice, and difficult to justify at the price point. That said, the balance was precise, with lemon and cranberry providing brightness and restraint against the grape’s natural sweetness.

Ginseng Coffee (+$7.00)

Sweet, creamy, and nutty, with an aroma closer to a liqueur than espresso. Lower in caffeine and well suited to the end of the meal.

The restaurant’s wood-fired pizza oven produced enticingly blistered pizzas for nearby tables, though these did not feature in the set menu.

Overall, the evening delivered moments of genuine excellence—particularly the focaccia, tiramisù, and selected beverages—alongside a number of dishes that felt technically competent yet curiously muted or imbalanced. A polished setting with flashes of distinction, but one that fell short of its full potential across the full progression of the menu.

Matteo Downtown is located at 20 Bond St, Sydney NSW 2000.