Ginza Kimuraya is renowned as Japan’s oldest bakery and the creator of the iconic anpan, particularly the sakadane anpan, introduced in 1875. Established in 1869 by Yasubei Kimura, a former samurai displaced by the Meiji Restoration, the bakery’s origins stem from Kimura’s encounter with an artisan baker who had trained under Dutch influences in Dejima, Nagasaki.
At the time, yeast was unavailable in Japan, and hop yeast produced bread that was too hard and sour for Japanese tastes. To address this, Kimura innovated by using sakadane, a traditional liquid yeast, to produce bread with a softer texture akin to manjū. Filled with sweet bean paste, the resulting bread was presented to the Emperor and quickly became a staple, celebrated for its unique flavour and texture. By the mid-Meiji period, campaigns promoting bread as a nutritious remedy for beriberi further solidified its popularity.
Today, Ginza Kimuraya continues to bake bread in the original building, offering an extensive selection of sakadane pan alongside modern savoury and sweet creations. Below are the items we sampled:
Sakadane Pan
Keshi (¥220)
The bread was remarkably tender and soft, with a rich, aromatic flavour that showcased the sakadane fermentation. The smooth red bean paste (koshian) was slightly too dense, making it cloying compared to the texture of chunky red bean paste (tsubuan), which we prefer.
Ogura (¥220)
This variant included tsubuan, offering a satisfying texture and contrast that enhanced the overall experience. A standout among the sakadane options.
Sakura (¥220)
Dating back to Kimuraya’s presentation to the Emperor in 1875 for hanami, this bun features a salted sakura flower garnish. While similar to the keshi, the floral, savoury notes from the salted sakura balanced the heaviness of the koshian beautifully.
Fig (¥280)
Larger than other buns, this version delivered ample fig jam with earthy sweetness. The jam’s texture, enriched by fig seeds, paired seamlessly with the sakadane’s fermented notes, making it a delightful option.
Uguisu (¥220)
Featuring green bean paste (uguisu-an) made from sweetened green peas, this bun provided a fresh, grassy flavour and a vibrant green-yellow hue. The subtle earthiness complemented the sweetness for a spring-like profile.
Shiro (¥220)
The white bean paste (shiro-an) offered a mellow sweetness that allowed the sakadane dough’s fragrance to shine. While unremarkable in flavour, the sesame seed topping added a pleasant nuttiness.
Kuri (¥250)
This chestnut-filled bun featured a creamy, smooth paste that was slightly too sweet. However, the inclusion of a whole chestnut at the centre provided a delightful textural contrast.
Modern Creations
Apple Cube (¥320)
A croissant-shaped cube filled with apple and custard cream, the pastry was crisp yet tender with buttery notes. The filling balanced sweet and sour Fuji apples with smooth vanilla custard, creating an excellent combination.
Black Beans & Kinako (¥320)
Another croissant cube, this featured kinako (roasted soybean flour) cream and black soybeans. The buttery pastry, sweet nuttiness of the kinako, and the firm yet tender texture of the soybeans provided flavourful contrast. This was one of the best cube pastries sampled.
An Butter (¥350)
Available exclusively at the Ginza store, this roll combined chunky red bean paste (anko) with whipped butter, reminiscent of ogura toast from Nagoya. While the butter added richness, the bread was too soft, and a crispier texture like Korean-style salt bread would have been preferable.
Savoury Options
Half Boiled Egg Curry Pan (¥320)
The gooey egg and crisp exterior were enjoyable, but the curry filling was minimal, offering only a mild, well-seasoned flavour without much substance.
Kinpira Burdock (¥320)
Braised julienned burdock and carrot with soy sauce provided a deeply savoury, crunchy filling that contrasted beautifully with the tender bread.
Ginza Kimuraya offers an exceptional variety of breads, with the sakadane pan being the highlight. The depth of flavour and tender texture in their dough set their anpan apart from any others we have encountered.
Kimuraya (木村屋) is located at 4-5-7 Ginza, Chūō City, Tōkyō 104-0061, Japan.