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Japan 2024 – Day 7: Iwate – Genbikei, Ichinoseki

Genbikei is a two-kilometre ravine carved by the Iwai River in Ichinoseki, Iwate Prefecture. Designated a National Place of Scenic Beauty and a Natural Monument in 1927, it is known for its dramatic rock formations, echoing water, and tranquil walking paths that run along the gorge.

Ichinoseki

Toyoko Inn Ichinoseki Ekimae

東横INN一ノ関駅前, 2-33 Kamiotsukikoji, Ichinoseki, Iwate 021-0882, Japan

Toyoko Inn Ichinoseki Ekimae sits a two-minute walk from JR Ichinoseki Station. The fit-out felt reminiscent of the early 2010s, though the amenities had been refreshed. The queen mattress was firm, the pillow serviceable (a typical bead-filled sack), and the bathroom compact but workable. The room included a reasonably sized TV, a table with chairs, and enough space for luggage, making it a practical base for transit.

Breakfast offered a few standouts:

  • A dense raisin bread made with alcohol-fermented yeast, carrying a distinctive aromatic character.
  • Corn soup with a richer texture and fuller sweetness than versions served at previous hotels.
  • Karaage that remained crisp with a well-seasoned, juicy interior.
  • Tender mochi with a pleasant red bean filling.
  • Firm, well-seasoned fish.
  • A thin but surprisingly spicy CoCoICHIBANYA curry soup.

Bus Centre → Genbikei

Genbikei

厳美渓, Takinoue, Genbichō, Ichinoseki City, Iwate Prefecture 021-0101, Japan

Genbikei is a two-kilometre ravine carved by the Iwai River in Ichinoseki, Iwate Prefecture. Designated a National Place of Scenic Beauty and a Natural Monument in 1927, it is known for its dramatic rock formations, echoing water, and tranquil walking paths that run along the gorge.

Arriving at the gorge, one is greeted by the immediate roar of rushing water from below the cliffs.

Genbikei Gorge looking east

Genbikei Gorge looking west

A small park diagonally opposite the bus stop provides a quiet rest area with a gazebo, smooth stone stream beds, and shaded seating. This is also the site of one of Genbikei’s most charming traditions: kawarake-nage-style ordering of mochi via rope and pulley. A basket is sent across the gorge with payment; moments later it returns carrying freshly prepared mochi and cups of green tea.

Kakkō Dango

かっこうだんご, Takinoue-211, Genbichō, Ichinoseki City, Iwate Prefecture 021-0101, Japan

Genbikei is widely known for its “flying dango.” Orders are placed by sending money across the river in the suspended basket, and the shop replies with a serving of three dango: smooth red bean paste, black sesame paste, and mitarashi sauce.

(See Kakkō Dango, Ichinoseki Review)

 

Saraha Glass Park

サハラガラスパーク, Takinoue-263-1 Genbichō, Ichinoseki, Iwate 021-0101, Japan

Saraha Glass Park presented an unusual contrast. Much of the grounds appeared neglected, with ageing structures reminiscent of the Shōwa era but without the nostalgic appeal that well-preserved retro sites often carry. A tunnel at the entrance displayed elaborate glass artworks leading to a central gift shop, which was significantly better maintained and stocked with affordable glassware and souvenirs. The park is only a short walk from the bus stop returning to JR Ichinoseki.

Nearby sits an old-fashioned souvenir shop, seemingly unchanged for decades. Many items were coated in dust or faded, and the shop adjoined a wankosoba restaurant.

 

Nano Hana Plaza

なのはなプラザ, 4-29 Ōmachi, Ichinoseki, Iwate 021-0881, Japan

At Nano Hana Plaza, we picked up a few regional sweets:

As well as the following:

  

Karintō manjū: A caramelised exterior carrying a complex molasses sweetness, contrasted by a crumbly red bean filling.

  

Sesame manjū: Similar structure, though the black sesame added greater depth and a more compelling nuttiness than the red bean alone.

Sansaikan Fujisei

三彩館ふじせい, 3-53 Kamiotsukigai, Ichinoseki City, Iwate Prefecture 021-0882, Japan

Sansaikan Fujisei is a long-established restaurant only steps from JR Ichinoseki Station, specialising in regional mochi cuisine and offering a concentrated introduction to local food culture.

(See Sansaikan Fujisei, Ichinoseki Review)

JR Ichinoseki › JR Hirosaki

Genbikei and its surroundings formed part of a broader journey through northern Tōhoku, with the route continuing northward from JR Ichinoseki to JR Hirosaki.

Ichinoseki–Genbikei formed part of Day 7 of 14-day journey through Japan’s Tōhoku region in 2024