Formerly of Lode Pies and Pastries and Picco Leo, Yeongjin Park opened his bakery in Darlinghurst at Tenacious Croissant in late August 2022. Darlinghurst was a bit of a distance for a detour on the way to the office, so I was delighted when the more conveniently located Haven Specialty Coffee started stocking pastries from Tenacious Bakehouse in their Darling Quarter store. The selection on offer was very limited, but I did manage to try two different pastries on two trips.
Portuguese Tart ($12.00).
Served warm, the tart had a generous, jiggly custard centre with well-restrained sweetness. The highlight of the pastry was the crisp and flaky layers with the miso caramel giving it a crisp exterior that was equal parts sweet and savoury and contrasted beautifully with the soft and smooth custard interior. Given the size of the tart — about 12 x 6 x 5 cm — the subtle sweetness of the custard helped the pastry component shine and avoid being overly heavy or overwhelming. That said, I do prefer my custards with a touch of richer egginess.
Injeolmi ($10.00). It’s about 10 cm in length and 7 cm in diameter, and a cross between a croissant and tteok (Korean rice cake) and consists of laminated pastry dusted in soybean powder and filled with vanilla custard and sweet red bean.
Biting through the nutty, sweet and savoury soybean dust, the pastry was audibly crisp before reaching the generous vanilla custard. The red bean was less evenly distributed – only a tiny amount was deposited at one end of the pastry – but its richer thicknesses complemented the softer lightness of the custard well. This was one of the pastries at Tenacious Croissant that made links to the baker’s Korean heritage, and if this was an indication of what Korean pastries are capable of being, I’m here for it.
After Tenacious Croissant ceased supplying Haven Specialty Coffee in early 2023, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that they had commenced supplying their pastries to Stitch Coffee mid-2023. Now, I had the convenience of accessing their delectable pastries with just a short stroll from the office.
Walnut Cinnamon Roll ($11.00).
The surface boasted a satisfying crunch from the sugar crystals that adorned the crisp, caramelized layers. Concealed beneath were perfectly laminated, tender, and buttery layers. The cinnamon presence was subtle, allowing the walnut frangipane nestled within the palmier-shaped pastry to shine. The frangipane carried a delightful brown sugar sweetness, with the walnuts contributing a chunky texture without any hint of bitterness from the husks. The result was a truly delicious treat.
Strawberry Tart ($13.00).
Built on a foundation of laminated sourdough pastry, this creation was generously filled with pistachio frangipane and strawberries. It was topped with a layer of vanilla cream, fresh strawberries, and a sprinkling of crunchy crushed pistachios. The pastry, crisply baked all around, including the base, provided a satisfying crunch. The pistachio frangipane, rich and nutty, harmoniously combined with the tanginess of both cooked and fresh strawberries. The vanilla cream showcased a delectable thickness, accompanied by a subtle savoury note. However, it seemed to carry a faint hint of funkiness, possibly suggesting a cream cheese base. This particular pastry was substantial and indulgent, meticulously executed to showcase its intricate flavours and textures.
Tenacious Croissant is located at 101 Oxford St, Darlinghurst NSW 2010.