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Bang Bang Izakaya, Haymarket

A permanently shut series of battered roller doors cover the front of Bang Bang Izakaya to give this restaurant on Darling Square’s Steam Mill Lane the hidden back-alley vibe, much like the yokocho lined with small pubs and bars in Shinjuku, Tōkyō and other Japanese cities that are popular with salarymen.

There’s a variety of seating available, giving it the appearance of being numerous eateries lining a narrow alley-way.  There’s a timber-cart counter with high stools, a glass karaoke room and a quiet tatami-style room, while neon-lit street signs and paper lanterns shine above the tables, and various road surface markings cover the asphalt floor. It’s an eclectic mix, but its authenticity makes it work.

There’s an extensive drinks list with a seemingly endless choice of cocktails, beers, wines, sake and whiskies. We’re here for a casual lunch, though.

This is the Omuyakisoba ($12.80), an ‘omelette wrapped saucy yakisoba noodles’.

The flavour from this dish brought back fond memories of street food in Ōsaka, with its use of bonito flakes, aonori, mayonnaise and some version of sauce that mixes Worcestershire and tomato sauces. Along with this delicious combination of flavours, the omelette is light and fluffy and the noodles have just enough bite. The noodles have just enough sauce and are stir-fried with carrots and (a lot) of onion, but unfortunately, lack a source of protein that would have elevated the tastiness of this dish.

N’s after the katsu don, but we’re told that none of the items involving food covered in panko was available that day, so she goes for the Karubi Don ($16.80) consisting of ‘seared wagyu ribeye fillets (marble score 8-9+) with caramelised JP BBQ sauce on rice. The slices of beef are reasonably generous and have a smokey flavour from the charred edges, although there’s a general oiliness to the dish.

Bang Bang Izakaya shows promise as a place to return for authentic Japanese food with a lively atmosphere although we’ve not found our go-to dishes.

Bang Bang Izakaya is located at 14 Steam Mill Lane, Haymarket, NSW 2000.