This is Frites Atelier, a Dutch fry concept founded in Amsterdam by three-Michelin-starred chef Sergio Herman, known across the Netherlands and Belgium for its signature skin-on, triple-cooked frites made with potatoes sourced from the south of Holland.

Following its first Darling Square pop-up in August, Frites Atelier returned two months later for another week.

Parmesan & Basil ($16.00)

This featured frites topped with shaved parmesan and served with basil mayonnaise. The frites were among the best we had eaten, with a consistently golden, crunchy exterior from the top to the bottom of the tray. They felt non-oily to the touch, while the interior achieved an excellent balance of creaminess and fluffiness. The potato flavour remained distinct, without the greasiness that can undermine thicker-cut fries.

The shaved parmesan added a layer of savoury umami, balanced in the same bite by the herbaceous, peppery sharpness of the thick, creamy basil mayonnaise. The mayonnaise was a revelation in its own right, providing enough aromatic intensity to complement the potato and parmesan without relying on excess richness.

Although the portion may not represent the best value for money, the execution was exceptional. The combination of crispness, interior texture and clean potato flavour, supported by the savoury parmesan and distinctive basil mayonnaise, made these frites well worth trying.

---

Overall, a premium fries offering defined by exceptional textural consistency and clean potato flavour, with parmesan adding savoury depth and basil mayonnaise providing a sharp, herbaceous counterpoint. The frites were the standout, with their crisp exterior and creamy, fluffy interior justifying the price despite the modest portion.

Frites Atelier operated as a pop-up at Darling Square, 35 Tumbalong Boulevard, Haymarket NSW 2000, from 6–11 October 2026.