Sou Ramen Lab opened in mid-2022 with a focus on chicken broth ramen. Sharing a space with a coffee shop in North Sydney, the restaurant was co-founded by Takeshi Sekigawa, a former chef at Iekei Ramen in Tōkyō, and then in Sydney as an opening chef for Gumshara in Sydney, and later head chef for Yasaka Ramen — the two spots largely responsible for Sydney’s obsession with the Kyūshū-style tonkotsu ramen.
From 7 October to 19 November, the restaurant operated a pop up in the Hawker Lane Food Court in Chatswood Westfield. Having been impressed by chicken-based ramen in Japan previously, and not being usual fans of the typical tonkotsu style ramen, we were keen to give it a try.
The pop up served five types of chicken focused ramen along with a selection of sides.
Tori Gara – Chicken Light Soup ($16.90, soy). ‘The golden, clear soup is made from carefully selected chicken stock, which is cooked at a low temperature of 70ºC for approximately 20 hours to slowly extract the best flavour.’
The broth, a clear and refined chicken soup with soy, was translucent and married the deep umami of chicken broth with a subtle, complementary sweetness, from apples. This combination delivered remarkable depth and evoked a nostalgic reminiscence of the authentic flavours of Japan. The inclusion of thick and chewy flat noodles, a rarity in Sydney’s ramen offerings, contributed to an immensely gratifying bowl of ramen.
Ritchi Ritchi – Chicken Rich Soup ($17.90, shio). ‘The viscous broth made from chicken bones, chicken feet, several vegetables, apples, and rice are light but in sweetness and richness, with plenty of refined umami’.
In contrast to the former option, this variation took a different approach by melding the soup’s ingredients, including chicken parts and vegetables, into a dense, sauce-like concoction reminiscent of the consistency found in tonkotsu soups. The broth resembled a roast chicken gravy, exhibiting a thickness along with a fine graininess. Surprisingly, the chicken breast was not dry as expected; it appeared moist. The seasoned soft-boiled egg reached gooey perfection, while the noodles were impeccably cooked to the ideal al dente texture.
Although the food was presented in disposable containers, which may not have aligned with the pricing of the dishes, the remarkable flavours and textures of the ramen exceeded our expectations. This experience has left us with a favorable impression, to the extent that we are now contemplating a visit to their primary North Sydney establishment should we find ourselves in the vicinity.
Sou Ramen Lab Pop Up was located at FM11 Hawker Lane Food Court, Chatswood Westfield, 1 Anderson St, Chatswood NSW 2067 operating from 7 October to 19 November 2023.