This is Sum Seo Dang, a casual Korean comfort food venue focused on traditional, mild Gyeongsang-region dishes, including soups and noodles.
The banchan (clockwise from left) comprised white kimchi, daikon kimchi, garlic scape kimchi, chilli kimchi and soy-braised shredded beef with purple garlic scapes. The white kimchi was quite sharp, providing a refreshing contrast to the savoury stew. Daikon kimchi retained a crunchy texture with gentle heat, while the garlic scape kimchi combined crunch and sweet heat with a notable apple or pear character. The chilli kimchi was very spicy. Meanwhile, the soy-braised beef had a deeper, sweeter garlic-onion profile from the purple garlic scapes than would be expected from standard green varieties.
Gyeongsang-do Spicy Beef Soup ($27.00)
The soup featured a sharp, spicy and refreshing broth, with plenty of fresh chilli and raw garlic cutting through a deep umami base. Generous quantities of radish, bean sprouts, green onions and mushrooms added variation in texture and flavour. However, the relatively small amount of sliced beef brisket left the protein component out of proportion to the vegetables and broth.
Soy Marinated Crab ($35.00; +$3.00 for steamed rice)
The dish featured a soy-marinated crab and two prawns, accompanied by a bowl of butter, seaweed and perilla powder intended to be mixed with rice. Charging an additional $3.00 for steamed rice felt particularly unnecessary when the accompanying bowl was designed around making a seafood rice bowl in the first place.
The soy marinade delivered deep umami, while the seafood tasted fresh, with a touch of heat from the chilli. The soy-braised egg had a soft, gooey centre. Extracting the crab meat was messy and labour-intensive, but combining it with the butter, seaweed, perilla and rice produced an exceptionally satisfying seafood rice bowl. The final combination made the effort worthwhile, even if the additional charge for rice detracted from the overall experience.
Overall, a Korean comfort food venue defined by bold, savoury flavours balanced by sharp acidity and fresh chilli.
Sum Seo Dang is located at Shop B2/1 Ave of Europe, Newington NSW 2127.