Shōseidō, a long-established wagashi shop at the base of Yamadera Risshaku-ji has been in operation for approximately 100 years.
It is best known for its morokoshi, a traditional confection made from moulded adzuki bean paste that is then roasted. Here, the morokoshi is imprinted with the word “Yamadera” and roasted over a charcoal fire.
A sample of the morokoshi revealed a delightful melting quality. After trying it, we purchased a selection of other confections—some to enjoy in-store with tea and others to take home.
Tea is complimentary, allowing customers to enjoy their purchases while seated inside.
Yamadera Manjū (¥500, 5 pieces).
This item appears to be even more popular than the morokoshi. Fresh from the steamer, it was feather-light and gently sweet, with a flavour reminiscent of kuromitsu. The red bean filling was generous and had a sufficiently loose consistency, ensuring it did not feel overly heavy.
Strawberry Mochi Popsicle (¥250)
This confection had an intriguing texture—soft and tender like mochi, with fresh, sweet strawberry slices on top, providing a contrast in both texture and flavour. A perfect treat after trekking up and down Yamadera, this frozen treat would be worth trying again in all available flavours.
Kurumi Yubeshi (¥160)
Wrapped in a thin layer of rice paper, the yubeshi had a bouncy, tender mochi-like texture. It was predominantly sweet but balanced with a savoury note, and contained generous chunks of crushed walnuts, adding both crunch and nuttiness. A convenient and satisfying snack to eat on the go.
Kintsuba (¥180)
A traditional wagashi, this consisted of a thin layer of sweet, chewy dough encasing a chunky adzuki bean paste filling, baked until the exterior was slightly crisp. The texture of the filling was excellent, with a pleasant chunkiness, though being entirely adzuki-based, it was enjoyable but not particularly exciting.
Fumochi (¥270)
A steamed black sugar cake with walnuts, this had a texture akin to sticky date pudding, though slightly denser and more fudge-like. The kokutō contributed a depth of flavour similar to dates, while the walnuts were generously distributed, adding nuttiness without any bitterness, as the husks had been removed. Despite its substantial size, it was light and easy to eat.
Shōseidō has remained for over a century for good reason. A visit would be well worth it when in the area.
Shōseidō (商正堂) is located at 4437 Yamadera, Yamagata City, Yamagata Prefecture, 999-3301, Japan.