Tōkyō Lamington was one of the few bright lights in the year that has now become 2020. The concept was conceived in 2019 by Min Chai (former N2 Extreme Gelato) and Eddie Stewart (former Black Star Pastry) and began as a travelling venture appearing at events around the world from Singapore to Tōkyō.
2020
Confined to Australia in 2020, they finally set up shop in Sydney, taking over the shopfront inside Market City that was once occupied by Gojima‘s second store.
Each lamington is packaged individually each with its own handles inside to lift the cake out without disfiguring the cake. Purchasing three lamingtons scores customers no discount, but there’s the carry case.
The Lemon Lime Bitters Lamington ($7.00) is layered with bitters flavoured cream, dipped in white chocolate and coated in lemon and lime zest and roasted coconut.
First up, the coating was missing the lemon and lime zest, which heavily skewed our tasting of this lamington. With that said, the flavour of the bitters came through subtly in the cream and is dominated by the sweetness of the white chocolate and the boldness roasted coconut in the coating that leaft only a vague hint of citrus. If the coating had the promised zest, it would’ve provided welcome relief from the sweetness.
The Royal Milk Tea Lamington ($7.00) is layered with milk tea cream and a coating of roasted coconut and royal milk tea.
The flavour of the royal milk tea came through subtly, again, in the cream, but delivered an enjoyable fragrance when tasted on its own. Together with the richness of the thick white chocolate coating and a generous dusting of roasted coconut, though, it could not hold its own either and resulted in an overly sweet mouthful that begged relief, but none was to be found.
The Black Sesame Lamington ($7.00) is layered with black sesame ganache, dipped in white chocolate, and coated with black and white sesame and roasted coconut.
This was by far our favourite so far with the black sesame giving bold visual contrast to the pale cake layers as well as delivering a rich, nutty flavour from the cream and the seeds mixed into the coating that held its own against the flurry of coconut and white chocolate. We’d go back for this one alone.
The Yuzu Meringue ($9.00) is layered with yuzu curd and cream, and covered in a scorched meringue. It’s the coconut free option in their line up.
With the dominating notes of the dessicated coconut out of the picture, the yuzu curd delivered a vibrant zestiness that lived up to our expectations. The denser curd contrasted well with the fluffy lightness of the cake itself, which had a slight savoury note to balance the bold sweetness of the meringue.
Tōkyō Lamington had us excited for something in 2020 and it delivered for the most part.
Tōkyō Lamington is located at Level 3 Market City, 9 Hay Street, Haymarket NSW 2000.
2021
Tōkyō Lamington released some limited edition Lunar New Year flavours of their lamington in February just before they packed up shop in Haymarket for a new home in Newtown.
This is the Pineapple Tart Lamington ($7.00), layered with pineapple jam and coated in butter cookie crumbs. Pineapple tarts are a famous Taiwanese specialty and usually feature a buttery, shortbread-like square-shaped casing with a pineapple filling similar to a very thick jam.
Here, the thick pineapple jam is the star of the lamington, with the fruit stewed to sticky caramelisation with a tangy sweetness while retaining some of the fibrous texture of the fruit to give an enjoyable textural contrast to the softness of the butter crumbs and lamington. Overall this is a very enjoyable interpretation of the usually dense, buttery cakes into a lighter more fluffy format. We’re glad to see more traditional Asian flavours transformed into a quintessentially Australian dessert.
We were also interested in trying singular savoury lamington, the beef red curry katsu, but we didn’t manage to catch it before it sold out.
2022
Tōkyō Lamington moved from Haymarket to Newtown — specifically, the old and original location for Blackedtar Bakery — sometime during the lockdowns of 2020-2021, making it less accessible much to my dismay.
But, seeing their Yuzu Hot Cross Buns (6 for $24.00) pop up constantly during the Easter period of 2022, I popped by one morning on the way to the office. They get their yuzu flavour from the yuzu peel and yuzu glaze.
The hot cross buns had a crisp top with a chewy cross that delivered a distinctly zesty yuzu flavour. Biting through the bun, though, the texture was dense with a notable yeasty flavour, both classic signs of an over-proofed dough. It lacked the tender softness of a good hot cross bun, while the yuzu peel did not deliver a bold yuzu flavour that could be distinguished from regular citrus peel when eaten with the spices.
Overall, these were disappointing and barely tasted better than a half dozen of the basic hot cross buns from the supermarket which cost less than the cost of one of these buns.
I also picked up a Kombu and Mushroom Onigiri ($7.00), which was made fresh to order to retain the crispiness of the seaweed sheet. The mushrooms were generous with a crunchy texture, while the kombu brought a deep umami savoury quality. The rice had the perfect amount of moisture, with just enough to provide structure to the onigiri while retaining each grain. That said, while not authentic, I do prefer my rice vinegared or flavoured with furikake.
Finally, this is the Lavender Matcha ($5.00, +$0.50 for large). This is the surprising winner of the items I picked up from Tōkyō Lamington. Lightly sweetened without a prominent dairy quality, the drink delivered a balanced lavender flavour that was distinct, yet sufficiently mellow, to avoid being soapy. The lavender notes complemented the vegetal quality of the matcha to give a fresh springlike flavour. This was a winner.
Tōkyō Lamington created a number of lamington flavours that were available only at Auburn’s Cherry Blossom Festival in 2022. We didn’t manage to make our way to the festival so were thrilled to see them available in-store for a limited time after the end of the festival.
Matcha Strawberry Lamington ($7.50). The first of two created for the Cherry Blossom Festival, this one featured a matcha sponge cake with a strawberry cream filling, dipped in strawberry white chocolate and coated in matcha coconut.
The matcha flavour here was gentle with minimal bitter notes and well balanced by the sweetness from the white chocolate coating. The highlight, though, was the strawberry cream filling, which brought a hint of acidity to capture the flavour of the fresh fruit and cut through the sweetness.
Cherry Blossom Lamington ($7.50). The second of two created for the Cherry Blossom Festival, this one featured a classic vanilla sponge with a filling of sakura whipped cream and sakura boba, dipped in sakura white chocolate and coated in coconut. A sakura flower was meant to add the final flourish but it was missing from ours.
The floral notes here were very subtle, and not immediately identifiable as cherry blossom. The sponge was light and fluffy with the sakura boba adding a moreish chewy texture though not much cherry flavour.
Melon Pan ($7.50). Not previously available in Sydney, this was an initial collaboration with Melbourne’s Le Bajo Milkbar where the melon pan is a bestseller. It featured a classic vanilla sponge with a honeydew cream filling, dipped in white chocolate and coated in cake crumbs.
The honeydew flavour was bright and immediately evident on every bite, while the soft cake crumbs created more of a softer ‘pan’ or bread mouthfeel than the usual desiccated coconut coatings. The sweetness was quite pronounced in the cake crumbs and we would’ve enjoyed a hint more of acidity in the cream to counter.
Pandan Kaya Toast ($7.50). It consisted of two layers of classic sponge sandwiching kaya, dipped in pandan white chocolate sauce and coated in toasted breadcrumbs.
The overall flavour of this lamington recalled pandan kaya toast. However, the slightly overcooked sponge amplified the toasted notes of the breadcrumbs, with the latter dominating the lamington by muting the pandan and leaving the caramelised coconut in the kaya to come through chiefly in the finish.
Earl Grey & Chestnut ($7.50). It consisted of two layers of classic gluten-free sponge cake sandwiching layers of Earl Grey custard cream and chestnut jam, dipped in Earl Grey white chocolate and coated in toasted coconut.
This flavour combination was exciting, although chestnuts are usually associated with autumn. The thick paste of the chestnut jam came through mainly as a textural element without a bold chestnut flavour, while the Earl Grey flavour was a touch more evident as a gentle floral quality. The addition of candied chestnuts would have elevated this lamington immensely.
Black Forest ($7.50). It consisted of two layers of chocolate sponge cake sandwiching a filling of cherry, chocolate and Kirsh, then dipped in dark chocolate Kirsh and coated in chocolate crumbs.
This lamington was one of the favourites of all the flavours we’d tried from Tōkyō Lamington throughout the years. The chocolate cake was moist with a rich and luxurious chocolate flavour. At the same time, the cream in the filling lightened any heaviness from the chocolate sponge and the pops of acidity from the cherries balanced the sweetness. It was delightful, though the black forest cake from Flour Shop, Turramurra still ‘takes the cake’ so to speak.
Rocky Road ($7.50). It consisted of two layers of classic vanilla sponge cake sandwiching a filling of chocolate mouse, fruit jelly, marshmallows and roasted nuts, then dipped in milk chocolate and coated in coconut and peanut.
This one didn’t quite live up to the standards of the previous lamington. The thick chocolate coating and filling dominated the lamington, leaving the lamington tasting much like a soft mess of chocolate, coconut and peanuts. There were insufficient jellies to cut through the richness of the chocolate, and their soft jelly — rather than chewy gummy — texture contributed to the mushy overall mouthfeel.
Umeshu Fruit Mince Tart ($4.50). It consisted of housemade umeshu added to a filling of mixed fruits, spices, brown sugar and some extra Choya umeshu.
I’m not usually one for mince tarts but the presence of umeshu lured me in, and this one at once surprised and disappointed. The restraint of the Christmas spices in the fruit mince filling took us by surprise, yet we were disappointed by the subtlety of the umeshu. Indeed, we would be hard-pressed to identify any umeshu in the filling. In particular, the orange peel in every bite stole overwhelmed the other flavours completely. That aside, we were impressed by the crispness of the tart and the overall enjoyability of the mince tart.
2023
Tōkyō Lamington kicked off 2023 with an array of intriguing new flavours. As COVID-19 disruptions extended into the initial half of January, we were relieved to regain our sense of smell and taste before the items were removed from the menu.
Strawberry Gum Shortcake ($8.00) featured layers of classic sponge enclosing a native strawberry gum mousse filling. The ensemble was coated in vanilla-flavoured whipped cream and crowned with fresh strawberries, described as a fusion of Japan’s beloved cake with an Australian twist.
While Japanese strawberry shortcake is renowned for its airy sponge, delicate cream, and fresh strawberries, this lamington did not quite measure up. Both the sponge and strawberry gum mousse had an unexpected density, akin to a firm jelly. Notably, the fruity acidity of the mousse harmonized well with the whipped cream’s sweetness, despite its lack of the usual lightness. The overall texture of the lamington leaned towards firmness, detracting from the enjoyment.
Japanese Forest ($7.50) enticed us to explore its green, woody, and sweet elements reminiscent of a Japanese forest. Hōjicha and matcha sponge layers enclosed ume cream before being enveloped in dark chocolate and coated in matcha cookie and chocolate shavings.
Unlike its predecessor, the Black Forest, from Tōkyō Lamington’s 2022 collection, the Japanese Forest won our favour. The moistness of the hōjicha and matcha sponge layers introduced a subtle tea flavour. These layers harmonized with the creamy ume cream, contributing both a creamy lightness and bursts of bright acidity to balance the opulent richness of the dark chocolate coating. The interplay of flavours and textures showcased a more refined balance akin to the Ume Forest Cake from Black Star Pastry.
Pineapple Tart ($8.00.88), exclusively available between January 18-22 to celebrate Lunar New Year, drew inspiration from the traditional pineapple tart snack often savoured during Chinese New Year gatherings. The lamington featured classic sponge layers embracing a pineapple jam filling. The ensemble was dipped in white sauce and coated in crushed pineapple tarts and red sprinkles.
Notably, the pastry’s buttery notes shone through, and the jam’s texture retained a delicate pineapple flavour. However, the overall pineapple flavour appeared slightly muted and excessively sweet, likely from cooking down the pineapple evident from the dark colour. The lack of tropical tartness hindered the balance with the substantial buttery crumbs encapsulated by a hard white chocolate dip. This texture was further intensified by the thick red sprinkle coating, which, though crunchy, added an unwelcome element.
Chocolate Sake ($8.50), one of three flavours celebrating Valentine’s Day, consisted of chocolate sponge layers enclosing a mixture of chocolate mousse, sake jelly, and chocolate ganache. The lamington was dipped in dark chocolate and sake and coated in chocolate flakes, chocolate sprinkles, and toasted rice.
The dominance of the chocolate flavour both in taste and texture overshadowed the subtler sake notes present in both the firm agar jelly and moist sponge. A heightened sake flavour, underscored by a more pronounced connection to rice, could have enhanced the overall success of this particular lamington.
This is the Four Pillars Yuzu Gin Lamington ($8.00), which featured a Four Pillars Yuzu Gin and Tonic soaked sponge cake, filled with yuzu cream and yuzu jelly, all dipped in white chocolate sauce and coated in desiccated coconut and yuzu rind.
The textures and flavours of this lamington captured the multi-dimensional zesty depth of the yuzu. The soaked sponge remained light and fluffy and delivered the brightness of the fruit with the drier mouthfeel accompanying the tonic base, while the yuzu jelly added a salivating pop of acidity that was countered by the sweetness of the cream. While the desiccated coconut finished each bite, the bits of yuzu rind left one in no doubt of the true star of this lamington: the yuzu.
For good measure, we compared it with the original Yuzu Meringue Lamington ($9.00), which consisted of a classic sponge cake filled with yuzu curd (made from yuzu juice sourced from Yamaguchi Prefecture in Japan) and vanilla cream, all dipped in toasted meringue.
Being one of the few coconut-free lamingtons on the menu, the meringue coating gave the sponge a sweeter profile overall, with the vanilla cream offsetting any salivating acidity from the yuzu curd. To our dismay, the sponge cake in this lamington was rather dense and dry in comparison to the lightness we enjoyed on a previous visit and left us thinking it was likely not as fresh as it could have been.
This Blackberry & Pepperberry Lamington ($7.00) was another limited flavour. It was described as a ‘blackberry & cream with a kick’ and consisted of a classic sponge cake filled with blackberry mousse, all dipped in a pepperberry-flavoured white chocolate sauce and coated in desiccated coconut.
Despite the deep purple colour of the blackberry mousse, the sweetness of the blackberry which naturally carried little acidity compared to some other berries meant that the mousse did not provide enough flavour contrast to carry the already sweet sponge cake and chocolate sauce. Rather the pepperberry was the dominating flavour to the background of sweetness and made its presence known in every bite with a gentle zing that lingered and built through each bite.
Finally, this was their Hōjicha with Brown Sugar ($5.00, +$0.50 for large), which was smooth and creamy with an enjoyable roasted flavour that was rounded by the brown sugar.
The Four Pillars Yuzu Gin Lamington was a delightful success, but after the previous experience with their under proofed Yuzu Hot Cross Buns, the stale-like density of the Yuzu Meringue Lamington suggested there may be issues with consistency of quality for a premium-priced product.
Tōkyō Lamington is located at 277 Australia St, Newtown NSW 2042.