OMI is a restaurant chain originating from Singapore, specializing in their interpretation of Japanese cuisine. They opened in Sydney in the latter part of 2023, prominently claiming the title of ‘Best Japanese Restaurant in Melbourne.’ After my visit, it came to my attention that this designation was based on their receiving the highest rating on EASI, an Asian delivery platform, as opposed to a prestigious culinary accolade worth noticing. In hindsight, ‘Best Asian Restaurant on EASI’ would be a more apt accolade.
Iced Shiratama Houjicha Latte ($9.90).
The hōjicha used in the drink was a dark roast, apparent both in its appearance and flavour profile. While it exhibited a smoothness that complemented the full cream milk base, it left a thinner impression on the palate and lacked the nuanced sweetness of the roasts found in versions from Comeco Foods, Matcha-ya, or Oh! Matcha. Regrettably, the shiratama balls were a letdown, characterized by a sugary sweetness that tasted unsophisticated. Furthermore, the ‘milk cream’ topping displayed an excessive savoriness with prominent dairy undertones, which was fortunately not cream cheese, but failed to harmonize with the hōjicha’s flavours and lacked the delicacy found in the Chicha San Chen version.
Iced Shiratama Black Sesame Latte ($9.90).
The black sesame base employed in this instance bore a striking resemblance to Kuki Sangyo Kuro Goma Latte, resulting in a delightful blend of robust, nutty black sesame flavour with a well-balanced sweetness. Unfortunately, the less favourable aspects from the prior beverage were also present here.
Houjicha Cake Roll ($9.90).
The sponge was soft and tender, offering a gentle hōjicha flavour that closely resembled the one in the latte. However, the use of cream cheese instead of whipped cream imparted a weighty and overpowering dairy element to the cake, which detracted from the delicate hōjicha flavour. The centre had a texture somewhere between a dense custard and a nama chocolate, and while it appeared to be hōjicha-flavoured, it ultimately fell short in delivering on that promise.
Overall, our experience at OMI did not leave us in a hurry to return. In addition to the food, the customer service conspicuously lacked the hallmark omotenashi hospitality typically experienced in cafes run by Japanese proprietors in both Japan and Sydney. Regrettably, the staff often overlooked patrons, sometimes even pretending not to notice customers situated just a meter away, whether they were waiting for service, collecting orders, or returning dishes.
Although we did not sample their savoury menu items, it was evident that their unapologetic fusion of traditional Japanese staples like donburi and udon with broader Asian flavours, including salted egg, sambal, and Singaporean Chili crab, among others, aimed to appeal to the diverse multicultural Asian community. This strategy cast doubt on their assertion as a genuine Japanese restaurant, appearing as if they were leveraging the current popularity of Japanese cuisine to draw in customers. In reality, the foundation of a donburi and a bowl of noodles is carbohydrates, serving as a versatile canvas for a variety of ingredients—a staple in numerous Asian cultures. It is the distinctive flavours that define it as Japanese.
OMI is located at The Concourse Chatswood, 409 Victoria Ave, Chatswood NSW 2067.