Japan 2024 – Day 5: Yamagata – Yamagata

Yamagata is a compact regional city in the Tōhoku interior, defined by its basin geography and strong seasonal contrast. It functions as both a transport base and an access point to nearby sites such as Yamadera, with rail connections running directly from the city centre. The region is equally known for its fruit production—particularly cherries (sakuranbo), alongside peaches, grapes, and pears—which shape both its agricultural identity and much of what appears in local food and retail. This post follows our time in the city.

Yamagata Station

S-PAL

Address: 1 Chome-1-1 Kasumicho, Yamagata, 990-0039, Japan

Review: Sakata Beika PARIPARI×SAKUSAKU La France

Reivew: Sakata Beika PARIPARI×SAKUSAKU Sakuranbo

Review: Sakuratoen Furufuru La France Jelly

Review: Sakuratoen Furufuru Sakuranbo Jelly

Review: Kurojishi Mizu Mochi La France

Reviews:

Review: Kurojishi Mizu Mochi La France

Junichi Ya

十一屋エスパル店, 2F S-PAL Yamagata, 1 Chome-1-1 Kasumicho, Yamagata, 990-0039, Japan

Review: Juichi-ya Shine Muscat Daifuku

Jindan Honpo Oe

Review: Jindan Honpo Oe Original Jindan Daifuku

Comfort Hotel Yamagata

1 Chome-3-12 Kasumicho, Yamagata, 990-0039, Japan

Arrival was on the previous evening from Sendai, with a stay at Comfort Hotel Yamagata, located close to JR Yamagata Station.

The property presents as dated, with worn wallpaper and a bathroom consistent with older business hotel standards. The mattress was serviceable but lacked firmness, while the pillow was notably thin. Towels were functional but not plush.

Temperature control was a persistent issue, with centrally controlled air conditioning unable to cool the room effectively, requiring the window to be opened. Lighting was dim, and the single lift servicing the hotel resulted in delays. Sound insulation was limited, with water noise from adjacent rooms clearly audible.

Dinner Day 1

Dinner was sourced from the supermarket attached to the station, kept simple following arrival.

Breakfast Day 1

The hotel provided complimentary breakfast from 6:30 to 9:00 AM.

Eggplant and mackerel bolognese presented without visible eggplant pieces, though the sauce carried a noticeable texture from the mackerel and tomato base.

Amazake was offered in a grape variation. The flavour leaned clearly towards grape, while the underlying amazake contributed a faint nutty note and a thicker, smoothie-like texture.

Breakfast Day 2

The second morning repeated the grape amazake alongside a La France jelly. The jelly carried a clean pear flavour with a soft, purée-like consistency.

Corn soup was also available, though it relied on corn powder, lacking whole kernels and resulting in a thinner sense of depth.

Yamadera

Yamadera (Risshaku-ji), known as the “Mountain Temple,” is approached via a long stone stairway ascending through dense woodland and weathered rock formations. The setting is structured vertically, with the climb shaping the pace and progression of the visit.

Historically, the temple was tied to the cultivation and trade of safflower, which contributed significantly to the region’s wealth and cultural development.

Trail Route

Konpon-chūdō

Hie Shrine

The Monument of Basho’s Haiku

Hie Shrine

Statue of Basho and Sora

Houmotsuden

Nenbutsudou

Shoro Bell Tower

Tozan-guchi

Uba-dō

Yonsunmichi

Oyasumiishi

Shugyōja-no-sandō

Semi-zuka

Midahora

Niomon Gate

Sannai-shīn

Shugyō-no-Iwaba

Mausoleum of the Feudal Lord Yoshiaki Mogami

Oku-no-in & Daibutsu-den

Kaizandō

Nokyodō

Shakaidō

Kaisan-dō and Godai-dō

Kinenden

Gift Shops

Numerous stalls sell konnyaku dango. Konnyaku dango from Yamagata are served warm in their light soy-based cooking broth, with a dab of karashi mustard that cuts through the mild, slightly mineral profile of the konnyaku with a sharp, nasal heat.

Streetscape

Review: OliveLeaf Yamagata Pineapple Cider

Shōseidō

商正堂, 4437 Yamadera, Yamagata City, Yamagata Prefecture, 999-3301, Japan

Review: Shōseidō, Yamagata

Fumotoya

ふもとや, 4439 Oaza Yamadera, Yamagata City, 999-3301 Yamagata, Japan

Review: Kuwana-en Tsuyahime Hōjicha

Review: Fumotoya, Yamagata

Fermata by Cozab Gelato

Review: Fermata by Cozab Gelato, Yamagata

Yamagata

Nanaichi Fresh Market

山形多田青果㈱なないち七日町店, 1F Yamako Building, 2 Chome-1-3 Nanukamachi, Yamagata, 990-0042, Japan

The Shinano Sweet from Yamagata presented similarly to a Shinano Gold (often marketed as Yello in Western markets). It delivered a firm, audible crunch on bite, followed by a pronounced sweetness supported by a measured level of acidity, giving enough juiciness to maintain balance without sharpness.